"La Roca shows what Garganega can do when Soave's limestone is taken seriously, and in magnum it has room to show even more. The grapes are picked late, in passes through the vineyard into late October, with a touch of noble rot for concentration and a honeyed edge. Pressed gently under nitrogen to hold onto those delicate aromas, fermented cool, then moved to wood for 12 to 15 months on fine lees with regular stirring, across French tonneaux and large Slavonian casks. It pours a brilliant straw gold. The nose is layered: bitter lemon rind, ripe pear and yellow peach, acacia blossom, with vanilla, toasted almond, honey and a hint of saffron and ginger coming through underneath. The palate is full and silky, rich stone fruit held in check by a bright line of acidity, finishing salty and mineral in a way only this limestone gives you. The larger format lets it age slower and more gracefully still — plenty of texture, plenty of tension, and a wine built to reward the table it's opened at, whether that's now or years from now."