"Four aromatic varieties from a south-facing slope in the Dalkowskie Hills, 180 metres above the Odra valley, planted on glacial boulder clay and sand and farmed without chemistry since 2002. Picked together by hand and left on their skins to do the work. Most of the blend spent four months in open vats, punched down by hand through the whole maceration. The remaining fifth spent six months buried in qvevri. Wild yeast throughout, no oak at any point, bottled unfiltered. It pours deep amber and hazy, closer to tea than to wine. Dried apricot and orange peel come first from the skins, then Traminer’s rose and lychee cutting across the top, elderflower and grapefruit from the Hibernal, honey and chamomile underneath, and a nutty edge the qvevri left behind. The palate is dry and properly tannic, grippy and savoury, with the Riesling’s acidity holding the whole thing upright. Full and chewy rather than fruity. Long finish on bitter orange and black tea. A wine for the table and not for the aperitif. Serve at 14 to 16 °C in a red glass. Pork belly, grilled aubergine, aged cheese, anything with turmeric or cumin."