"Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the Dalkowskie Hills, 180 metres up on a south slope above the Odra valley, where glacial clay and a cool autumn give the kind of acidity a zero dosage wine cannot be made without. The base blends three harvests, 2020, 2021 and 2022, the 2021 portion given six months in oak barrique to buy back some weight. Both fermentations spontaneous, every component six months on its lees, bottled unfiltered. Into bottle for the second fermentation in August 2023, then thirty six months on the lees before disgorgement. Nothing added at the end. It pours pale gold with a fine, persistent bead. Three years of lees ageing announce themselves straight away, brioche and toasted hazelnut and a buttery warmth over green apple, lemon pith and white peach. The Pinot Noir adds red apple and pastry underneath, the oaked fraction a thread of smoke. Bone dry, with nowhere at all to hide. High clean acidity runs down the middle, carried by a creamy mousse and a broader palate than zero dosage usually gives you. Long, chalky, saline. Zero dosage done properly, austere in the best sense, all the richness coming from the lees. Oysters, langoustine, fried fish, or on its own. Serve at 8 to 10 °C in a white wine glass, never a flute."